Unless made by Domaine Ott or Chêne Bleu, I usually avoid rosé due to its lack of character. Fortunately, this example from the Pélépol family near the lakes of Carcès in Provence belies this prejudice. This latest release, made predominantly from Grenache along with Carignan and Syrah grapes, has an exquisite pale colour, lowish alcohol and oodles of flavour. Curiously, it reminded me of liquorice at first but soon transformed into intense floral fruits, which increased with exposure to the air. Good to drink with fish and white meats, but why not have it as an aperitif and marvel at such an extraordinary wine for this price?